While installing new asphalt paving is a job for professionals, many imperfections in older paving like potholes and cracks can be repaired simply with inexpensive materials.
It's not a clean job and not for everyone, but if you're willing to get dirty, it's not difficult either. Here's how you go about repairing damaged asphalt.
Tools Required
Shovel or Block Trowel
Shop Vac or Broom
Hand Tamper
Hose or Bucket of Water
Cold Chisel and Hammer
(Note: You may want to rent a plate tamper or walk behind roller for larger patches. These can tamp the patch more effectively, and are available at most equipment rental stores for about $50 a day.
They are, however, completely unnecessary for cracks or potholes not much larger than a square foot.) (Note: It's not always needed, but you may need a masonry blade and a saw to completely remove loose asphalt from a pothole. 7 ¼" masonry blades for your circular saw are available at any home supply store.
A diamond blade will hold up for a long time if you have many cuts to make, but they aren't cheap. An abrasive masonry blade is a cheaper alternative for minimal cutting.)
Materials Required
Asphalt cold patch
Rubberized crack filler
(Note: You may need some gravel for deep holes or sand for deep cracks.)
Step 1: Evaluate the pavement
Not all pavements are capable of being repaired. Some driveways are better off being replaced. You will first need to determine if your driveway is worth repair.
Consider replacing your driveway if you notice you will be repairing almost as much pavement as you will be leaving, the pot holes are larger than a few square feet, or if a large section has heaved or sunk in elevation. Once you have decided that it's worth repair, you will want to begin on a warm day so it is simpler to spread the cold patch.
Step 2: Remove loose gravel and asphalt from potholes.
You will need to remove all of the asphalt down to the gravel base. Use a hammer and chisel to remove any asphalt in the hole. A nice square cut with a masonry blade may make this easier. You want to end up with a hole that has nice vertical edges down to the gravel base. Remove any loose materials.
Step 3: Clean the hole
Dust and dirt will prevent the patch from bonding effectively to the existing pavement. Use a shop vac to remove fine dirt and dust from the hole, and then dampen the sides with a hose or wet rag.
Step 4: Add gravel if needed
The time it takes for much more than 3" thick of cold patch to cure can negatively affect the performance of the patch. If your hole is too deep, add gravel to the bottom and tamp thoroughly.
Step 5: Spread cold patch
You can pour cold patch straight from the bag into larger holes. Use a shovel or block trowel to place cold patch in smaller holes. Do not use your hands. Contact with skin can be harmful and it may seep through gloves. Fill the hole about ½" above the existing surface.
Step 6: Tamp down the patch.
Use a hand tamper, plate tamper, or walk behind roller depending on the size of the patch and the equipment available. Compaction is one of the more important factors to the performance of your patch, so be sure to tamp the patch thoroughly.
If you tamp the patch below the surface of the existing driveway, repeat steps five and six until the patch is even with the surface. Repeat steps one through six for all potholes, and then begin repairing cracks.
Step 7: Clean out cracks
(Note: Sections of pavement that are surrounded by cracks on all four side or cracks larger than ½" wide should be dealt with as potholes.) Dirt and dust will prevent crack filler from bonding to asphalt just like cold patch. Remove weeds, dirt, and debris from the cracks until they have clean edges.
Step 8: Add sand if needed.
Crack filler should only be about ¼" deep. If the crack is much deeper, add sand to the bottom of the crack and tamp in with your chisel.
Step 9: Apply crack filler
Many rubberized crack fillers can be applied with a caulking gun. Fill the crack and quickly pull a wet putty knife across the surface to smooth it out. (You may need to do this a section at a time. If the crack filler begins to cure, it won't be able to be smoothed)
Step 10: Clean up
Clean up your work space and avoid direct pressure over the patches for a few days. It may pay to block the driveway if you have done a large amount of repairs.
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